Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Pingyao: A trip to Old World China

A view of countryside from the train
As I mentioned in a previous post, I visited China for three weeks in May 2011. The trip came about because I attended a conference in Shanghai, but it was a good opportunity to do some traveling in another, very different part of the world.  I was fortunate that my parents, very seasoned travelers, were interested in accompanying me.   In this past post, I talk about the experience of running in China.  As time permits, I would like to catalogue some of the sights and adventures (apart from running) from that trip.  If you find yourself traveling to China, and are interested in more information, please don't hesitate to contact me!

The old city wall (6km)
surrounds Pingyao
We took an overnight train from bustling Beijing and traveled 12 hours to arrive around 5am in the sleepy city of Pingyao.  The Chinese travel predominantly by train, therefore there are many different types and speeds of trains.  We had a K train, which is the slowest and oldest of the "high speed" overnight trains.  We booked a first class sleeping compartment, which was not luxurious but adequate and comfortable.  However, many of the men in our car insisted on chain smoking throughout the night and would not close the car doors.  The smell of smoke filled the cabin and made breathing and sleeping somewhat challenging.  Furthermore, the toilets were beyond disgusting so we minimized use as much as possible.  Because Pingyao is so small, traveling by train is the only option.

A courtyard of our guesthouse
The overnight trip was well worth the effort, because Pingyao was the most interesting and pretty city we visited.  It was the financial capital of the empire during both the Ming and Qing dynasties and the old city layout has been preserved since that time period.  As China modernized, the government bulldozed a significant amount of cultural relics and old cities.  Pingyao is one of the very few that did not fall to this fate, and because of its more than 4,000 well preserved homes and old wall surrounding the city, it is a UNESCO world cultural heritage site.
Bikes and rickshaws rule
the road here

During the Ming and Qing dynasties, Pingyao became extremely wealthy and was the closest location of banks to the seat of the empire, in Beijing (then Peking).  Anyone interested in acquiring a loan would have to travel to Pingyao to meet with the bankers.  This stimulated other businesses, such as guesthouses and restaurants.  You can visit the original banks and stay in the guesthouses, all located within the old city wall.  This part of the city does not allow cars, and the predominant form of transportation is bikes.

Intricate gargolyes and lattice work
grace the preserved homes
We stayed two days and one night in the heart of Pingyao.  Our guesthouse was beautiful and had many courtyards and a very pretty, traditional room.  We were fortunate to have modern plumbing and hot water, because in this part of China, both are rarities.  In fact, many of the homes here sport a miniature water tank on the roof.  Most people cook with coal here, and the smell is omnipresent.  Also, the air is filled with particulates, which did give me some allergy problems, especially after 4 days in heavily polluted Beijing.  If I could do it over again, I would have packed some nasal spray and Sudafed.

We spent the days biking around the old town.  There were a few temples and museums to visit, and I walked atop the entire 6km of the old wall, which gave me great views of the city and homes.  We found the local food delicious and interesting, with lots of mushrooms, potatoes, noodles (potato and oat!) and spices.  Preserved beef is common to the cuisine there, but being vegan, I passed on that.  I did try some very interesting Sea hawkthorn juice, which was both sweet and tart and the color of mango juice.  We also visited shops.  Local goods include lacquered boxes and handmade shoes. I didn't indulge in either, but did buy a hand-carved wooden fruit basket and some candies.  My mother bought some very good jasmine tea.

Biking along the old city wall
Because most of China is very densely populated, the other cities we visited were bustling and crowded.  By contrast, Pingyao was tiny (only 490,000 people compared to the 24 million in Shanghai).  The architecture was also very beautiful and I would say it was definitely a highlight of the trip!

Monday, July 11, 2011

My First Hydration System - Nathan Speed 2


While I maintain a strong belief that running unencumbered (sans GPS, music, hydration packs and other gadgets) has its place and pleasure in the running world, I am very pleased to be the owner and frequent user of a new Nathan Speed 2 hydration pack.  The oppressive heat of a Texas summer necessitated some change, especially if I am to build up long runs beyond 1 hour in duration.  I have used the Nathan Speed 2 on many runs since acquiring it, and I have definitely noticed that drinking water in moderation has made the experience much more pleasant.  Here is my review of the product, for all this one runner's opinion is worth.

The Good
The hydration pack is relatively lightweight, even with 20oz of water and contours to the hips very comfortably.  I was very impressed that there was no bouncing of the bottles.  I really didn't want a handheld bottle because of the sloshing and am happy I chose a waist pack instead.  It did take a few tries for me to get the belt on the right spot of my hips, but once there, it was a smooth and comfortable ride.  I find that low on the hips works best and with a 28inch waist and 32inch measurement around the hips, I went for the medium.  I could have gotten away with the small, but many reviewers online said the product ran small.  I would disagree and say the product runs true.

The plastic bottles are easy to open with the mouth.  They can also be washed in the dishwasher (top rack), which is a big plus.  The cloth waistband dries quickly and has no irritating seams.  The color schemes are nice, although I did chose basic grey.  The pockets built into the waist band are awesome, and I intend to get a lot of use out of them on long training runs.

The Bad
The bottle tops are difficult to close with the mouth and I am always afraid they are not completely closed.  Reaching behind with my left hand feels a little awkward, and I did drop a bottle once, which rolled into a flood drain, leading me to stop my run and crouch in the gutter to retrieve it.  I expect the reach around motion to become more comfortable with time.  Also, the bottles make considerable contact with my sides.  Initially, it is uncomfortable having the ice cold bottles against my skin.  A short way into my run, I notice that the water is lukewarm (heat transport by conduction at work!).  This is a minor problem very much outweighed by the benefits of hydration, but worth noting nonetheless.

While I would prefer to run without the added weight of a pack, I am going to be sticking with it for any runs in the hour plus range, at least until the temps drop back down.  I was able to get the Nathan Speed 2 on Amazon.com for $28 and free shipping.  I think it is a pretty good deal and this is one piece of gear that is going to be getting a lot of use from me!  And while this purist is now a convert, I think that in cooler weather I won't be using it as often, and probably only on runs over 2 hours.

Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Summer Running in Austin: Part 1

It's that time of year again in Austin, TX.  Day time highs above 100F (yes, that is hotter than body temperature...), overnight lows between 73 and 78F and temperatures hovering in the 90s long after 10pm.  While morning temps in the mid 70s may not seem terrible, the humidity averages 90% at that time of day.  In summary, Austin summer weather is nothing short of unbearable for outdoor running.

Despite that, I try to make the best of it, getting up bright and early to run in the "cooler" morning temps.  My paces are slower and I feel like I'm running through a wall of humidity.  The sweating starts almost immediately and somewhere between 10 and 12 minutes in, my body is literally coated in sweat.  In my desperate attempts to keep myself cool, I am wearing very little clothing and have nothing with which to wipe sweat from my eyes, ears, forehead, shoulders etc etc.  I let it pool all over me and just go with it.  Lawn sprinklers are a welcome sight and offer a brief moment of reprieve.  When I finish, all the sweating leaves my core body temperature dangerously high, which can be alleviated pretty efficiently with a 10 minutes cold shower.  I follow this up with massive quantities of cold water, and it usually takes me the entire day to properly rehydrate.

Thirst on the run has been a major issue lately.  I have been trying to do longer runs in the range of 10 miles.  In cooler weather, I can easily run 16 miles without any water, but the summer heat has made that impossible.  I finish 7 mile runs totally parched and can recognize that the lack of water on the run is impacting my performance.  I finally caved in and got a hydration pack (actually boyfriend bought it for me as a birthday present!).  I got the Nathan 2-speed waist pack.  As a minimalist runner who hates taking "stuff" with them, the idea of a handheld was not appealing and the Nathan waist packs are not supposed to bounce.  I am hoping these extra 20oz can help me build up to the 14 mile range through the summer months.

On Sunday, I made the fatal mistake of sleeping in.  Sadly, I was very tired and had also gotten up early on Saturday morning to run.  I silenced my alarm and didn't get up until after 9:30pm, far too late to brave the morning heat.  This left me no choice but to run in the evening.  As previously described, evening temps stay in the 90F range up until about 10pm, so I decided that I would make the best of it and run at 8pm, a half hour before the sun went down.  I am babysitting my friend's dog Ike, who loves to run, so I took him along.  Ike is an incredible runner and has a lot of endurance, so I was surprised when both of us were lagging about 45 minutes into the hour run.  At our last intersection, Ike even lay down on the ground, something I never see him do, indicating he was hot, exhausted and running on empty.  We slogged through the last 5 minutes and celebrated with  frosty glasses of water.  The worst part was that, even though I had my new hydration pack, I elected NOT TO BRING IT WITH ME!  A 7 mile run is a standard distance for me, and I convinced myself I wouldn't need it and should wait to use the pack for longer runs.  A mere 3.5 miles into the run, I desperately regretted my decision.

So what have I learned with all these hot weather running?
1) The weather isn't going to get better for awhile.  Don't wait for ideal conditions, just motivate yourself and go out and do it
2) Running in the morning is almost always better than the evening.  Unless there is a massive rain storm and you happen to synchronize your run with the rain
3) Hydration makes a big difference.  Drink drink drink leading up to the run
4) Even dogs hate hot weather running.

When I finally use my new hydration pack, I will write a review with my thoughts about it.  In the meantime, stay cool and run long!

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

Summer Swimming

One of the (few) perks of being a graduate student is free access to the amazing athletic facilities of the University of Texas, including their natatorium which has both an indoor pool and outdoor pool.  The outdoor pool is open year round, and heated in the winter.  I have found that I really enjoy lap swimming outside.  There is a lot less noise, and chemical odors compared to an indoor facility, and I can enjoy the sunshine.  While it is definitely hot this time of year, water circulators keep the pool temperature low enough that it feels refreshing.  The pool is quite large, with at least 10 lanes of 25m in length.  It is also pretty popular.  On Monday evening, every lane was full with at least two people and there were a few people waiting for a place.  I have noticed that on the weekend afternoons, there is a lot less demand and I can usually get a lane to myself.

I read enough books, magazines, and blogs and heard enough running related interviews and podcasts to know that runners benefit from cross-training.  In fact, I think we all know that.  But in practice, with limited time and energy, it can be hard mentally and physically to work cross training into an exercise schedule.  But after nearly 13 years of regular running, I've decided to commit to a regular, albeit low level of swimming to diversify my workouts.

DSC_0009.JPGAn Austin summer is an optimal time to increase cross training and decrease running.  The heat and humidity (100F and 90% are normal and regular from May-Sept) make running both a hydration challenge and less enjoyable.  I either run first thing in the morning (finishing before 8am) or need to wait until after 8:30pm.  While I am training for a half-marathon in October, I have cut back my running to five days a week with one long run on the weekends.  I think five days a will still provide enough consistency to build a solid running base and then provide race-specific training.

DSC_0107.JPGOn the two non-running days, I am trying to phase in lap swimming workouts.  For the past three weeks, I have swam once a week and this will be my first week with two pool workouts.  I started off with 2000m in one workout and have worked up to 2500m.  2500m takes me about 50 min, so ideally I would like to add another 500m for an hour total swim.  I like to vary the workouts as much as possible, and incorporate warm-up laps, backstroke, breaststroke, kicking, pulling and sprints.  I usually swim 500m sets, and then take a 2 minute break to drink water before starting again.


Hopefully I can expand the swim workouts to twice a week and maintain this pattern.  If so, I think I will start to notice the benefits with my running.

Monday, June 6, 2011

A (nearly) naked cyclist

I few days ago, I was enjoying what for all intensive purposes was an average run.  It was hot and humid (just like it always is these days in Austin), I was sweating a lot, listening to a running podcast on my iPod and was cruising along near the Shoal Creek trail.  My boyfriend and I had just parted ways; I wanted to extend my run so he took our favorite running partner Ike back with him.  There weren't a lot of people out and it was that time of day just between daylight and dusk.  Just then, practically out of nowhere, a mythical Austin figure appeared on the road heading right towards me bearing it all...the (nearly) naked Cyclist!

Austin, TX has a saying; Keep Austin Weird.  It's plastered on bumper stickers, t-shirts and hats and a significant portion of the populous embraces this saying wholeheartedly.  I guess that when you are a liberal, artsy, music city smack dab in the middle of a fairly conservative state, it's hard not to earn a reputation of being weird.  This alternative attitude makes Austin a pretty progressive, interesting place to live.  Bumping into the (nearly) naked Cyclist always reminds me just how unique this city is.
The (nearly) naked cyclist in his typical attire in
downtown Austin, TX

This is the third time I've seen this guy.  He rides his bike all around Austin, though I have only encountered him in the Hyde Park area.  He wears nothing except an olive green thong and sometimes a hat.  No shirt, no pants, no shoes.  He unabashedly rides his bike through the streets, and when I pass him, I cannot help but stare.  It is very weird, even by Austin standards, and I just cannot look away.

I guess these are the things that keep our runs interesting and make for good stories.  I cannot take credit for this excellent picture capturing the (nearly) naked Cyclist.  Check out more excellent Austin photos here.

Thursday, May 26, 2011

Running in China

I recognize that I haven't written in about two months, which is unfortunate.  I'll explain briefly and try to prevent this from happening again.

On March 6th, I ran the Little Rock Marathon in Arkansas.  I will write more about that in the near future.  After LR, only five weeks later than the Miracle Match Marathon in Waco, TX, I was pretty tired and settled into some low-key, fun running without any training goals in mind.  As a result, I had a little less to say about my running.  Most of my focus shifted to work (i.e. being a graduate student in chemical engineering).  In April, I submitted two manuscripts for publication in scientific journals.  Preparing them required final experiments and a lot of writing and revisions.  This process is very time consuming.  Lastly, I had to prepare a talk for a conference (Asian Congress on Biotechnology) I recently attended in Shanghai, China.  I left for China on April 28th, and the month leading up to the trip was very crazy for me.

I was able to spend almost three weeks in China.  The conference took up a solid week, plus two days for traveling.  However, for the remaining 17 or so days, I was able to travel around China with some family members, and it was a great and interesting experience.  Sadly, a few days before the end of my trip my camera got lost.  I don't know exactly what happened, because I was rushing around trying to catch a boat before it left. I either left the camera in a taxi, or it was stolen from my bag.  Fortunately, the people I traveled with have much nicer cameras than I and plenty of pictures they will share with me.  In the meantime, I can't add any of my own pictures.  I will probably update this post later to include pictures from my trip.

The trip started in Beijing, the capital of China.  We stayed there for 4 nights and then took an overnight train to Pingyao, in the Shaanxi province.  We stayed 1 night in Pingyao before taking another overnight train to Xi'an (Shanxi province).  We stayed two nights in Xi'an and then took a high speed train to Luoyang (Henan province).  After two more nights in Luoyang, we took a flight to Shanghai, where we stayed 6 nights and I presented at the conference.  We then took a short, high speed train to Suzhou (just outside of Shanghai in the Jiangsu province) and stayed one night.  We stayed a final night in Shanghai before our flight back to the United States.

In another post, I will talk more about what I saw/experienced in each of these locations, but for this post, I want to talk about running in China.  I packed an older pair of running sneakers (which I left behind at the end of my trip to lighten my luggage) and was able to run 7 times while in China.  When I factor in the days on the plane, as well as overnight train rides, it works out to running almost every other day, which I was pretty happy with.

One thing I did have problems with was running for long periods of time.  My runs varied in length from 34 to 49 minutes.  I would have liked to get closer to the hour mark.  My primary limitation was finding a place to run without heavy traffic, a lot of street-crossing, and a constant need to dodge pedestrians, bicyclists and motorcyclists.  Everything you may have heard about China being crowded is true.  The cities are massive, with Beijing and Shanghai alone holding over 20 million people each.  Of all the places we visited, only Pingyao had less than 2.5 million (population 480,000).  This was a major difference compared to the United States or other countries I have visited.  This kind of urban sprawl isn't very conducive to distance running, and while most of the cities have very nice parks, they aren't necessarily very large or anywhere near the hotels.

Another problem I had towards the beginning of the trip was jet-lag.  Beijing is 13 hrs ahead of Austin, and the flight over took around 19 hrs.  When I arrived in Beijing I was exhausted, had gotten very little sleep on the plane, and it was 2am Beijing time before I went to sleep.  Over the next few days, I adjusted pretty well and seemed to be back on track just before we left for Pingyao, but it was difficult to sleep on the overnight train, and I had a little setback.  By Xi'an, my body clock was back on track.

In Beijing, we stayed in a Marriott located next to the old city wall; the original structure demarking the city center and seat of the Chinese empire until it collapsed in the 1930s.  While very little of the wall still exists, there is roughly a mile and a half still intact, along which a very nice park and path had been built.  I ran along this path, next to the old wall and through the parks on a weekend morning.  Many people were out walking their dogs, doing Tai Chi in the park, or writing Chinese characters with big brushes and water on the paving stones.  It was very beautiful.  At the end of the run, I finished up by running through the winding streets of a hutong located just behind my hotel.  Hutongs, or neighborhoods, are the old style of housing in Beijing.  They are disappearing fast, as the government bulldozes them to make room for high rises, displacing people in the process.

Xi'an is an old, walled city.  Our hotel was very close to the south section of the city wall.  I ran to the wall, and then along a canal on the outside of the wall.  It was very picturesque and the park was well maintained.  I again saw people doing exercises in the park, walking dogs and lounging around.  I also saw women giving haircuts on the sidewalk, very interesting!  Xi'an was hot, temperatures rising above 85F during the day.  The humidity was not ideal for the morning run.

Luoyang's weather was much cooler.  While we were there it was drizzly and rainy, which is certainly ideal for running.  My hotel was about a mile from a large river, which had a nice jogging path and park running along it.  I was able to run very far in one direction, and then simply turned around and headed back.  This park was very popular in the morning, packed with adults and children even though it was a weekday.  Being a female, Caucasian runner, I was definitely interesting to them and throughout the run people pointed and stared at me.  This was a pretty common experience throughout China, in fact (excluding Shanghai), but it was most noticeable on this run.

In Shanghai, we stayed in a central part of the city.  This made it very convenient to get to and from the conference, but meant we were nowhere near a park or jogging path.  The first time I ran here, I went around the block, which I estimated to be one mile, three times.  I then used the treadmill in the gym for another 17 minutes.  The next time was my shortest run of the trip (34 minutes), for an out and back run.  I ran along a main road until it ended, and then headed back.  Along my route, I passed an Ikea.  I guess some things about big cities are the same.

Suzhou is a water city with an intricate network of canals of varying size.  When I went running there, I headed out along one of the main canals, which had a path right along the water.  I crossed the canal on a very pretty bridge.  It was an enjoyable and scenic run, but unfortunately, I could only run a few miles before turning back.  Some private buildings sit right along the canal, which meant the jogging path stops abruptly.  To continue, I had to find my way around the buildings and back to the path.  It was also very hot here, so the 45 minutes of running felt sufficient.

My last day in China, I was very determined to run.  I knew that the exercise would help me withstand the long plane ride.  Unfortunately, the hotel (which was very nice) was right next to a highway and surrounded by  busy roads.  There was nowhere to run outside, I tried asking the concierge and he thought I was crazy for suggesting it.  I was relegated to the treadmill, which I have a very hard time using for any extended period of time.  I slogged through a 40 minute run (thank you iPod).

Overall, I was happy with my running experience in China.  While the air quality is generally very poor throughout the places I visited, I never noticed any additional problems because of the running.  I figured I was breathing particulates regardless of whether I exercised.  The weather was varied, in Beijing it was a cool 55F, but in Xi'an and Suzhou it rose into the 80s.  Finding places to run was a little challenging, but in many cases it ended up being a great opportunity to take in some scenery and explore my location.  I did not see many other runners.  I think each time I went out, I was lucky if I saw two other people running.  Now I'm back to Austin and my regular running routes, which is very nice.  Of course, the weather here has already hit triple digits, so I guess you can't have everything...

Monday, February 28, 2011

Favorite Foods:Nuts & Seeds

Back in September I drastically changed my eating habits and embraced a vegetarian lifestyle with strong vegan tendencies.  The choice is  motivated by health and ethical reasons (not the subject of this blog post).  I do want to highlight, however, that I find myself eating a much more varied diet and trying so many more new foods than I ever did as an omnivore.  Because of this, I am constantly discovering new favorite foods.  This post will be about one such category of food: nuts and seeds.  I eat nuts and seeds every day.  They are calorically concentrated and a great source of healthy fats and protein.  Eat them in their whole food state to get the best benefit and see if you can't incorporate them into all three of your meals!  While not a comprehensive list, here are some of my favorites, as well as how I commonly eat them.  Go nuts!

Pine Nuts
Perhaps one of my favorite nuts, these little guys are harvested from pine cones and come encased in a hard coat, which is then split open to reveal nut meats.  Harvesting pine nuts is very labor intensive, which unfortunately makes them pretty expensive (I pay $28/lb).  They have a delicious, piney, rich taste and I enjoy adding them to pasta dishes, roasted vegetables and sauteed greens.  They are also delicious in cookies, although the cost per pound may be a deterrent.  Pesto recipes traditionally call for pine nuts.  They are about 190 calories per ounce.

Walnuts
A great source of omega-3 fatty acids, as well as protein, walnuts are 185 calories per ounce, are rich in flavor with a slight bitterness.  I like to use them in baked goods such as cookies, muffins and quick breads.  I often add them to a lunch salad or mix them in with my oatmeal.  You can toast them in your toaster very easily, it takes less than five minutes.

Pecans
Not just for pies, I find pecans to be a sweeter, less savory nut.  I like to toast them and add them to my oatmeal, and I often bake with them.  They are a great addition to any salad, and compliment fresh berries, balsamic vinegar, spinach or baby greens.  Pecans ring in at 195 calories per ounce.

Almonds
Almonds are probably the most versatile nut (to me).  They can be used in savory dishes, such as couscous with raisins, and are also a staple when it comes to baking.  Finely ground almonds can be substituted in part with flour to give baked goods a delicious nutty flavor.  Furthermore, almonds are great in anything from cookies to bars, brownies, breads and pies.  Don't forget that marzipan is a paste made from ground almonds and sugar!  When I'm not having them in a dessert, I like to add almonds to oatmeal, salads and pasta dishes.  A breakfast favorite for me is almond butter on toast.  Relatively low calorie for the nut world, these guys are 165 calories per ounce.

Cashews
Cashews aren't actually a nut, but rather a legume, but I added it here because most of us think of these guys as part of the nut family.  I love adding cashews to a vegetable stir-fry dish and find they pair well with a drizzle of soy sauce.  Just like with almonds, I thoroughly enjoy cashew butter on toast for breakfast.  I buy freshly ground nut butters in bulk, but the MaraNatha brand is another good option.  I have several recipes for cashew cream that I intend to try out, but haven't had the opportunity yet.  This faux-nut packs 155 calories per ounce.

Sunflower Seeds
Enough about nuts, on to the seeds!  Of all the seeds, sunflower are probably the most delicious to me.  I add these to my salad nearly every day and buy them in bulk, pre-roasted and salted.  I also like sunflower seed bread, but I buy that in the store and have not attempted to make it myself (yet).  They are about 165 calories per ounce.

Flax Seeds
I use ground flax seeds a lot because of their healthful and useful properties.  Flax seeds are the most concentrated source of omega-3 fatty acids anywhere, so I make a point of adding a tablespoon of ground flax meal to my oatmeal.  It also adds a rich, nutty flavor.  You can also add finely ground flax to smoothies, soups or salads and shouldn't notice much of a change in taste.  Ground flax whipped with water also makes an excellent egg replacer in baking, without the cholesterol.  I use it for breads and cookies, and recently made a successful and delicious batch of latkes.  Ground flax is about 35 calories per tablespoon.

Pepita (pumpkin) Seeds
I use pepita or pumpkin seeds in similar ways to sunflower seeds.  I like to add them to my salads, and I have also mixed them with sauteed greens and vegetables for a delicious effect.  It is easy to make your own, especially in the fall and winter, when squashes are abundant.  Just scoop the seeds from the gourd's center, wash in cold water and roast with salt and some oil in a hot oven.  They are about 170 calories per ounce.